Chacuterie
Charcuterie: French from chair „flesh‟ and cuit
„cooked‟ is the branch of cooking devoted to prepared meat products such as
bacon, ham, sausages, terrines, galantines, pàté and confit primarily from
pork. Charcuterie is part of Garde Manger chef‟s repertoire. Originally
intended as a way to preserve meats before the advent of refrigeration, they
are prepared today for their flavours derived from the preservation processes.
In
prehistoric times, probably sea fish was the first to come to the notice
because brined by the sea they either, fermented and became rotten, when left
to dry on the shore or they dried, thereby preserving them.
Meats were hung off the ground and near the fire to
keep it out of reach from scavengers and insects, in the process it dried and
got smoked there by preserving them.
As communities settled down into herdsmen and farmers,
they developed skills necessary to ensure a relatively steady food supply, for
example they not only developed skills for domestication of animals and crops,
but also to preserve them. There are records of Sumerians as far back as 3000 B.C. used a similar method for
preserving meats after salting them. Records also show that Chinese and Greeks
produced salted fish. Greek writer „Strabo’
was the first to record a detailed process of fish salting centres in
Spain; some of them are still prepared in the same way even today.
The Gauls were successful in domestication of Hog,
and became experts in preserving them as Ham and Bacon. Food preservation skills
and the necessary ingredients like salt, sugar and spices were greatly in
demand.
The starting point of the Garde Manger commenced with
the growth of guilds in the 12th century. The right to slaughter and
preserve foods which was one of the most important activity occurring in Fall
when cows, sheep and other animals were butchered before the onset of winter,
was a visible symbol of power, wealth and rank. This privilege belonged to the
Kings, Lords, Dukes and other nobility as well as to Monasteries and convents
of the Catholic Church.
As trade grew between countries the demand for
specialty skills grew and the formation of guilds came into being. Rules were
established so as to prevent abuse of monopoly and unfair pricing. These rules
governed how merchants prepared and sold goods and services. The guilds that
prepared and sold cooked items made from pork were known as
Charcuterie meaning cooked
flesh in French. These guilds kept the practical work of preserving meats alive
and thriving, making Ham, Bacon, Pâtés, etc.
With the advent restaurants, eating houses and hotels these skilled
people found employment, however till the great “Auguste Escoffier” came on the scene, there was no organized
structure in the Kitchens. It was
only after him that Garde Manger was incorporated into the Kitchen Brigade and
it retained the traditions of preparing a variety of preserved and cold foods.
The Garde Manger, now, has expanded its scope to include appetizers, salads,
sandwiches and accompanying cold sauces and condiments.
Typically a chopped meat mixture stuffed into tubular casing. It is
derived from the Latin word “Salsus” meaning salted. The concept originated in
antiquity when it was desirable to find some way of preserving the blood and
minor bits and pieces of a pig after slaughter. The first recorded sausages
makers were Roman. North American Indians made “PEMMICAN” sundried lean buffalo
or Venison meat, pounded with fat, mixed with vegetables, stuffed in hide skins
and sealed with tallow.
This method of preserving meat has proved to be so
adaptable and successful that sausages have come to take many forms and
question of definition and classification are complex.
Although meat, especially pork, is most commonly
used, it is not the defining character, for it is a known fact that fish
sausages were also made. Glamorgan sausages in fact, contain only vegetables,
cheese & leeks. As regards shape, the Lorne sausages from Scotland are
square in shape without casing
The evolution of
sausages its hybrids are as vast as to make its classification difficult.
TYPES OF SAUSAGES
Sausages may
be classified into 3 basic groups:-
a)
Fresh sausages
b)
Cured sausages
c)
Smoked sausages
a)
FRESH sausages
are one that contains no nitrates or nitrites. It is basically a mixture of
ground meat, seasonings and flavorings. Although they are often raw, fresh
sausages may contain cooked ingredient, or they even be fully cooked before
being sold. Any fresh raw sausages containing pork, of course, must be fully
cooked before being served/ eaten.
b)
CURED sausages
are one that contains nitrates and nitrites of sodium. These chemicals help
prevent spoilage and food borne disease and also keep the meat red or pink,
even when cooked. Cured sausages may be sold raw or cooked like soft and most
fresh sausages, semidried and firm, or dried and hard like salami. Some dried
sausages may be eaten raw as the curing, aging and drying process renders them
safe to eat.
c)
SMOKED Sausages
may be hot smoked, and therefore cooked, or cold smoked. Smoking may be light
or heavy, depending on the sausages. Sausages are cured before being smoked and
that cure mixture is mixed directly with sausages meat.
The basic Sausages ingredients are as follows:-
The basic Sausages ingredients are as follows:-
- Lean pork or other lean meat
- Pork fat
- Salt
- Spices,herbs,other seasoning and flavourings.
- In case of cured sausages,curing mixes are added to the above list.
Lean pork or other lean meat
Pork is the most commonly used meat in sausages making.
Beef, veal lamb, chicken, turkey, Duck, liver, rabbit, and venison are also
used in combination with pork.
Pork fat.
Pork fat or other fat constitute an important part of a sausage. Juiciness in any cooked meat is largely due to the meat fat content. Without it the texture of the cooked sausages would be very dry.
Fat makes up 25 to 50% of the total weight with 33% fat being the norm.
Hard fatback is preferred over other fats for pork sausages. Softer fats are
more likely to melt out of the
sausages during
cooking.
Cereal ingredients and fillers (rice, barley, bread crumbs etc.) can be
used to help reduce fat content. Because, these starches absorb and retain
moisture, they enhance the total moisture content of low fat sausages.
SEASONINGS:-
Herbs, spices and other flavouring account for the primary difference
among sausages. It is the seasonings that give them their characteristic
flavour. Some of the major spices and herbs used in sausages making are :-
Allspice, Mace, Cayenne pepper, tarragon, cinnamon, caraway seeds, ginger,
basil, nutmeg, cumin, mustard, thyme, parsley, black pepper, paprika, sage, etc.
OTHER FLAVOUR ENHANCERS
- Monosodium glutamate
- Mono-ammonium glutamate
- Nucleotides
- Bacterial cultures
- Enzymes
- Phosphates.
Acidulates: They are used for softening of tissue, juice retention etc.
STABILITY ENHANCERS
They
are used to protect flavour, slow down mould growth, extend and bind the
product. There are 3 classes of extenders and binders.
-
Animal based, are Galantine and non fat dry milk
-
fermentation based is done by introducing specific type of micro organism
-
.Cereal based are flour, eat, wheat barley corn and rye.
-
They extend the products volume by acting as fillers.
Other important ingredients used
Garlic Shallots Wine eggs
Onions Chives Vinegar
CASINGS
From the earliest time people discovered that parts of the slaughtered
animal such as intestines, stomach, caul and bladder made practical stuffing
bags for the seasoned meat, these casing are at the very heart of the sausages
making process.
After the seasoned and or cured meats is stuffed into the casings, it
dries for a specified time in an environment of controlled temperature and
humidity. As the casings hold the ingredients in close proximity, complex
chemical reactions take place and transform the meat into sausage. Flavours
mature, enzymes modify the textures and the meat is preserved, this activity
continues for days, weeks, and even months.
This curing period may be followed by smoking, where the permeability of
the casings allows the smoked to penetrate and create a distinctive flavour,
colour and an outer protective layer.
The casings give each sausage its identity either by its shape and
colour.
1. Natural casing
Natural casings
are made from the intestines of animals. Soon after they are slaughtered the
intestines must be cleaned.
The steps taken to process the intestines are as follows:-
i)
Empty the intestines by flushing thoroughly with cold water
ii)
Remove all the external sinew, blood vessel and fat.
iii)
Wash again in running cold water.
iv)
Drain all the water by pressing the intestine between
two fingers and run them from one end of the intestine to the other.
v)
Soak the drained intestine in a disinfecting solution
of potassium permanganate at 100C for 2 hours
vi)
Drain and rinse the intestines
vii)
Sort according to size and use.
viii)
Casings are packed in dry salt for storage, when used
they must be systematically washed and rinsed in cold water before use.
Sheep casings are the smallest ranging from 3/4 inch (18mm) to 1 inch
(25 mm) in diameter 16-18 mm Cocktail
Sausages
18-20 mm Chipolata
Sausages
20-22 mm Frankfurters,
Chipolata
22-24 mm Strasbourg, frankfurters
Hog casing are
medium sized about 26-50 mm diameter. They are used for many popular fresh
sausages
e.g. 26-30mm Small
Toulouse
30-32 mm Toulouse,
Bratwurst
35-38 mm Dry Salami
38-45 mm Salami
45-50 mm Big
salami
Beef casings range in size from
around 45 mm in diameter to more than 100 mm.
e.g. 34-37 mm Bloodwurst (dry)
37-40 mm Spanish Chorizo
40-42 mm Leberwurst
50-55 mm Large Salami
90-150 mm Mastadella
Natural casing are often sold packed is salt. Because of the preservative
effect of salt the casings keep indefinitely as long as they are refrigerated.
They are easy to use. Before they are stuffed casing must be untangled, rinsed
and flushed and examined for holes.
2. Manufactured Casings
Man made casing are made from animal products such as collagen, while
other are manufactured from approved plastic materials. The advantages of
manufactured casings are:-
a)
Economical
b)
Practical
c)
They require very little preparations before use.
d)
They come on easy to handle rolls
e)
they come in various colours
f)
In various lengths
g)
Their uniform dimension makes accurate portion control easier.
Not easily available
Quite expensive
Casings may be reinforced with natural fibres or nylon, some can shrink
into the sausage to create a pleasing appearance. Both plastic and collagen
casings offer the same control of smoking as the natural ones.
TYPES of casings
Collagen casings
Can be made very thin and are delicate
enough to be completely edible. The
collagen is made from the inside or corium layer of cattle hides. The casing is
available in size range of 14 to 45 mm. They hold up especially well on today
high speed stuffing and linking machines. They can be linked quite short
Shrinkage loss is less with collagen casing because the uptake of colour is
very rapid, resulting in faster processing. These casings are both sanitary and
clean, thus saving time and labour. They are also available in a curved style.
Collagen casing require refrigerated storage at 10°C. They do not need nor can
tolerate prolonged soaking.
The Hukki Knitted collagen casing
Is
formed around a nylon web which creates a very strong casing. It is highly
recommended for dry and semidried sausages that will not be exposed to high
smoking temperatures, the limit for this casing is 76.°C,they are available in
popular size and can be stored indefinitely at room temps. A 10 minute soaking
is required before use.
PLASTIC OR CELLULOSE CASINGS
They can be tailor made to any size and are very
strong. They do not need refrigeration, cleaning them before use is not
necessary. They can be coloured and imprinted with labels and logos, for e.g.
red suggests Bologna, white indicates Liverwurst etc. These casings are
universally used in the manufacture of skinless hot dogs and frankfurters.
FIBROUS- CELLULOSE CASINGS.
These are by products of the food processing
industry, Cellulose and fibre is extracted from the husks, skin, peels, pips
and seed of the fruit and vegetable during the processing stage, which are them
processed further to make casings. These types of casing are also referred to
as peel able cellulose. The fibre adds to the strength of the casings and
enables them to handle high temp especially during smoking.
PROTEIN LINED FIBROUS Cellulose Casings
A protein lining is often added to the inside of the
above type of casings. The protein lining caused the casing to shrink as the meat
is cooked or dried so that it retains the shape of the sausage. Used mainly for
dried or semidried sausages. They need to be left soaking in water before
stuffing as the protein tends to stiffen during storage.
CAUL FAT (NATURAL CASSING)
A membrane lining of the stomach is used as casing to
make flat sausages e.g. Crepenette. The membrane is networked like a spider‟s
web with streak of fat. Caul fat is ideal to wrap items of uneven size like the
„Joukanika‟ which are patty like Greek sausage and the crepinette.
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
There are two methods of
production:-
a)
Basic grind.
b)
Emulsion grind
BASIC GRIND
This method
used for the following types of sausage
Fresh sausages which are raw sausages that are typically pan fried,
grilled, baked or braised before serving.
Cooked sausages: are poached or steamed after shaping, they may be sliced
and served cold or prepared by grilling baking or pan trying.
Smoked & Dried sausages are cold or hot smoked, then allowed to air
dry in a curing room to the desired
texture, they may be prepared for service in the same manner as cooked during
smoking or are not fully dried must be fully cooked before serving.
Procedure
1.
Grind chilled and diced meats, as well as other
ingredients as required by the receipt to the desired texture.
2.
Mix the around sausage meats until they become homogeneous
3. The sausage mixture is now ready to test, garnish and shape.
EMULSION GRID SAUSAGES
Emulsion sausages, such as frankfurters and
mortadella are made from basic mixture known as 5-4-3 forcemeat- 5 part trimmed
raw meat to 4 part pork jowl fat to 3 part water in the form of ice. Many
emulsion style sausages are poached before smoking. The procedure is as
follows:-
- Cut the meat and then grind through the fine grinder die.
- Grind the chilled fat through the fine grinder die keep aside.
- Add crushed ice and process until temp. drops to below 30F
- Add the ground fat to the meat when the temp reach 400F
- Add remaining ingredients including non fat dry milk and seasoning when the temp reach 500F.
Now ready for testing, shaping and finishing the sausage
4
TESTING
No matter how many times you have used a particular receipt, it is
important to make a test each and every time. The quantity of your ingredients
the temperature of the sausage mixture and the conditions of your equipment all
play a big role in the final quality.
Test the sausage by making a small sample that has been cooked in the way
that you intend the entire batch to be prepared the temperature of the
forcemeat must be the same as you would intend to serve.
·
Sausages may be
·
Baked
·
Pan-fried
·
Oven baked or roasted
·
Poached in water
·
Braised or stewed
·
served cold
GARNISHES
Sausages maybe garnished after the forcemeat has been tested cheese,
vegetable cured or smoked meats, nuts and dried fruits are examples of garnish used.
Non Meat ingredients
These are food additives which can be legally added to sausages or other
processed meats. They enhance Flavour, Colour, they slow or prevent bacteria
growth, act as preservative and extend the volume of the sausage.
There are six types of additive
·
Water is added
during the blending stag. It improves the mixing and helps to extract the
proteins from the meat.
·
Curing
Agents: - They are necessary to inhibit the growth of clostridium
botulinum an anaerobic bacteria and improve shelf life.
·
Curing
accelerators speed up the curing process. The accelerators should not be
directly mixed with curing agents some e.g. ascorbic acid, enythorbic acid,
citric acid.
·
Sensory
enhancers also used to enhance the flavour, smell colour and feel of
the Sausage. They are: - Salt including MSE, sweeteners both nutritive and
non-nutritive are used.
·
Nutritive sweetness is cane or beet sugar, dextrose
& corn syrup. Non-Nutritive are saccharin, sorbitol, etc,.
·
Flavourings used are spices, hydrolyzed plant,
vegetable and milk protein autolyzed yeast extract and mustard flour :- adds to
flavour increases volume act as binders and
improve peeling
·
Colouring both natural and artificial- if artificial
they must be certified food colours. Natural colourings may be obtained from
paprika, saffron, turmeric caramel etc.
TYPES OF
FOCEMEATS used
in SAUSAGES
Cured minced
forcemeats Cutter pulverized forcemeats Combination forcemeat
SAUSAGES OF SPIAN-PORTUGAL
CHORIZO made from small piece
or chopped or mixed park with some fat, peppers to give colour garlic ginger
and other spices may be soft or hard cured goes with caldoverde cabbage pot soup.
MORCILLA. black pudding or
blood sausage seasoned with clove, cinnamon nutmeg aniseed fennel pine nuts
etc.
BOTIFARRA DOLÇA: - Sweet
venison cured with sugar flavoured with cinnamon and lemon juice eaten as dessert.
SAUSAGES OF BRITAIN
Cambridge –sage cayenne and
nutmeg.
Oxford- pork +
veal +beef suet, sage, nutmeg+ herbs Wiltshire: ginger & seasonings.
Yorkshire nutmeg+cloves&cayenne
Glamorgan: cheese and leek
sausage skinless coated with egg white
SAUSAGES OF FRANCE
Fresh sausages are known as
SAUCISSE
e.g. Saucisse de Toulouse saucisse de Strasbourg
Large sausages are known as
Succession e.g. succession à curie
Andoville and and Andouillette tripe based, they are make in the Normandy
region e.g. Andoville de Vire cerealsare short stumpy fresh sausage made with
pork, beef, coriander, allspice nutmeg+ garlic.
Three major categories
BRÜHWURST – which means parboiled
sausage made from finely chopped raw meat maybe smoked red in colour
e.g.
1.
Frankfurter
2.
Bierwurst coarse pork and beef sausage – garlic flavour.
3.
Westphalian Schinkenwurst – smoked over a fire of Birchwood and juniper berries.
ROHWURST
Raw Sausage
intended for keeping,-cured dried and sometimes smoked eg. Teewurst smooth fine
textured spiced
Mettwurst Raw
smoked Cervelatwurst. Not cured
Fully cooked sausages not
intended for keeping
E.g. Leberwurst
liver sausage Rotwurst blood red sausage Bhitwurst
Zungenwurst Tongue sausage.
SAUSAGES OF ITALY
Casalingo:
homemade coarse black pepper flavoured. Milanese also known as crespone mild
garlic flavoured. Salami Largest sausages
Pepperoni- long
narrow highly spiced MORTADELLA- largest LOMBARDY-cloves and Cinnamon.
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